When you play a note, the pitch is shown in the middle of the display. To switch between analog view and digital view, click the Switch between analog view and digital view button in the upper left corner of the plug-in. You can display Tuner in an analog view or in a digital view. Best tuner on the planet minus a Conn/Peterson.To use Tuner, you must activate Monitor for the track with Tuner. Gonna pre-order that one just so I don't have to worry. Best kept secret in the business as far as I'm concerned.Įdit: heard back from them already, how's that for service! The ST-300 is preorder so they sent me the unpublished order link. I surely hope they still have the 1590B sized one - the ST series is one of those tuners people just don't realize what they are missing until they've owned one. I was just on the Sonic Research site because I want to purchase a backup for my ST-200 which is now the ST-300 but the only choice appears to be the ST-300m which is a mini version. You need to be pretty close to the right note to see the direction that the lights are spinning so it's still quite a ways from what I want. So far I've only spent a few hours on this so there's quite a bit to do but the concept seems to be working. I need to work a bit more on how the lights react to a signal, in terms of how fast they light and how quickly they fade. I've got an ST122 and I'm using that as a basis. I use it to help tune my piano and it can easily show the faintest of pitch deviations in real time. It's instantaneous, far far more accurate, and shows many other characteristics such as detecting faint signals, picking out harmonics, and other things. Anyway, this same thing can be done in software and it's completely different than FFT based tuners. This is easy to see if you set it to something like 27.5 Hz because you can really see the flicker. It essentially 'plays' that signal around a set of lights at a speed determined by a reference frequency. It displays the actual waveform as lights lights are on if the waveform is above the zero line and off if it's below. There are many different ways to generate a strobe display but they all show the same characteristics. They simply display the actual waveform against a reference frequency graphically and you use your eyes to determine if the signal is sharp or flat. They don't do FFTs, peak fitting, and all that calculation intense crap. A strobe tuner is not 'Smoke and Mirrors'. Conventional tuners will get you close enough in the ballpark to where it may be acceptable, but a strobe tuner will be more exact. That is why any good Luthier will not use a conventional tuner to set a guitar's intonation. You will not find a conventional tuner that has 1/10th of a cent accuracy. That is because of the difference between a conventional tuner's accuracy and a strobe tuner's accuracy. Guaranteed, your guitar will not be exactly in tune. Then, take the guitar out of tune and just tune with a conventional tuner and then check your tuning with a strobe tuner. The conventional tuners will show that the guitar is in tune. Start by tuning with a strobe tuner, then check your tuning with a conventional tuner. Apparently those people that are telling you this need to do the following. Musicians do love and swear by hocus-pocus. True? I dunno, but it sounds right to me. People who know a lot more about this than I do tell me that virtually all of the current so-called "strobe" tuners (and all of the software ones) are just conventional tuners with meaningless cosmetic strobe-like visual simulations.
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